By Mitzi VanSant

In my last column, I discussed preparation for the fall vegetable garden.

The same soil prep (compost and organic fertilizer) will provide an ideal environment for fall planted (and transplanted) annuals and perennials.

Once your soil has been renewed, it is time to think about dividing and resetting existing perennials.

Consider moving those that have spread beyond their bounds, or perhaps begun to die out in the middle of the clump.

Cut them back hard to 3-4 inches of foliage and place them either in their old home, a new bed with a similar sun/shade situation, or share them with friends.

Agapanthus, Bearded and Siberian Iris (yes, they do well here), Dietes/Bi-color Iris, Cannas, Daylilies, various Ferns, Hostas, Lamb’s Ear, Liriope, Summer Phlox, Society Garlic or any spreading perennial can be divided and moved in September.  Keep them well watered until they become established.

In our Zone 8B, fall is the best time to plant almost all trees, shrubs, vines and perennials.  They will settle in and develop strong roots that will sustain them through the following summer.

The only plants that don’t adapt well to fall planting are those somewhat frost-tender items like tropical Hibiscus, Angel’s Trumpet, Princess Flower and vines like Mandevilla or Jasmine.  They do better planted in early spring, so they can develop and harden off a bit the following fall and be ready to go into their first winter as larger plants.

Mid-to-late September is the best time to plant (as transplants) the following annuals that do well here:  Alyssum, Calendula, Candytuft, Chinese Forget-Me-Not, Dianthus, English Daisy, Lobelia, Petunia, Snapdragons and Stocks.

Plant now, but as directly sown seeds:   Cornflower or Bachelor Button, Larkspur, Nasturtium, Shirley and Iceland Poppies.  These last mentioned plants resent being moved once they have germinated.

In October you can begin planting those varieties of annuals that really won’t tolerate heat at all.  Sweet Peas and Drummond Phlox by seed; Pansies, Johnny Jump Ups, Ornamental Kale and cabbage are easily found as transplants here, and should go into the garden at this time.

Most of the plants I have mentioned will winter over and bloom off and on in winter and then heavily again in early spring.  You’ll need to mulch them heavily with leaves, straw or pine-needles to carry them through the heaviest frosts of winter.

Some perennials (in addition to those spreading ones listed in early paragraphs) that respond well to fall planting are: Agastache, Ajuga, Artemesia, Stoke’s Aster and Aster frikartii (also the native Aster oblongifolius), Bulbine, Butterfly Weed, Catmint (Nepeta x faasinii), Henkley’s Columbine, Obedient Plant, Pink Scullcap, Purple Coneflower, Rosemary, hardy Salvias and Turk’s Cap.

plant Native Wildflowers soon

You might also consider preparing a bed for our native wildflowers, and purchasing a mix adapted to this area.

I bought a Texas/Oklahoma mix from Wildseed Farms in Fredricksburg (www.wild

seedfarms.com)  last fall, and spread about 8 lbs. on open areas of my 16-acre Wild Rose Ranch on Gotier Trace Road.

With all of the rain we received last fall and winter, I had a great showing of wildflowers this spring and summer. I just recently mowed them down so they would re-seed for the following year.

Be sure to start in September if you want Bluebonnets.  They must sprout and grow to small rosettes to winter-over safely.

The other wildflower seeds can be planted a little later, into November, and still do well.

Northerners hide out in the house in the winter, while we find ourselves driven inside in the summer.

These upcoming seasons of fall, winter and early spring are some of the nicest times of year to be outside.  Please be sure to enjoy them in the garden.